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Mughal Road is a new big tourist site in J&K
Arif Qureshi 2/6/2016 12:08:44 AM
Today Mughal road is connecting three culturally and geographically different areas like Rajouri ,Poonch and Kashmir.
As the word Mughal road indicates that this path had been a route used by the great Mughal emperors like Akber Jhangir and shah jahan for reaching Kashmir valley during their time of reign .It is because of this that Mughal road has acquired a royal status.
Mughal Road is about 89km from Bufliaz to Heer pur .Today it is the smoothest and artistically built highway .Dozens of historical spots beautiful grass laden mountains ,waterfalls different and fragrant species of flowers, lash green meadows, charming huts and sweet song of natural wild birds adds more beauty to this road .
One can never get bore while traveling on Mughal road In a very shorter span of four hours one can reach heaven on earth from Bufliaz Following are some main areas along with their stories where Mughal emperor loved to stop along with their many wives ,ministers and servants.
Chingus Sarai is one of the most important Mughal Monuments on old Mughal road constructed by an Iranian engineer Ali Mardan Khan on the orders of emperor Jahangir in between 1605to 1621 AD.
This Sarai was the fifth halting station for the royal carvans on Mughal road which was 170 miles long from Gujrat (Now in Pakistan) to Srinagar and divided into 14 halting stations. The monument is surrounded by natural atmosphere located on the right bank of Sukhtao river in between Nowshera and Rajouri which is about 131 KM away from winter capital Jammu and 255 km from summer capital Srinagar via Mughal road. C.E. Bat who visited this sarai in 1867 AD writes in his book 'The Gazetteer of Kashmir' that Chingus Sarai complex is constructed on a flat table land about two hundred feet above Sukh Tao river.
The Sarai is Located at 2000 feet above the sea level. The whole village is known as Chingus and famous for this Mughal monument. Apart from this the village is also known for a prominent Hindu Bawali, ancient stone sculptures with figures of snakes and small lingams under Pipal trees.
The sarai complex is surrounded by thick pine forests, scattered Pacca houses The original name of the village was Khanpur which was established by Jaral Rajas of Rajouri. However, after the burial of entrails of emperor Jahangir in the Sarai the name of the Sarai and village was changed to Chingus Sarai. Chingus is a Persian word for entrails.
The overlooking view of snowy peaks of Pir Panchal range is marvelous from this station. There is a tourist cafeteria, small dhabas, tea stalls and tourist guest houses for the convenience of tourists. During summer season there remain great hustle bustle at this spot. From 2012 onward, with opening of Mughal road, the passengers and tourists start avoiding the journey from Srinagar to Jammu via national Highway due to rush and on the road and prefer to travel from Srinagar to Jammu and vice versa via Mughal road instead of Jammu - Srinagar Highway.
The Mughal Sarai Chingus is about 300 years old monument which had remained center of hustle bustle of royal carvans during Mughal period from 1586 to 1751 AD. With the downfall of Mughals in Kashmir, the renowned Mughal road and monuments constructed at each halting station also got severe setback and no attention was paid towards the maintenance of these monuments for centuries together. R. C. Kak writes in 'The Antiques of Rajouri and Bhimber' that Mughal Sarai Chinguswas in dilapidated condition in 19th century AD.
It was only in 1997 when the local MLA and the then forest Minister Mohd Sharif Tariq had taken a bold decision for the restoration of old glamorous and glorious Mughal monuments. Initially he got the restoration work started through his Community Development Funds. Later on, he prevailed upon archives department and got the whole Sarai complex restored in its original shape up to 1999.
Mughal sarai Chingus is a spacious inn with a mosque, the burial place of the entrails of Jahangir, 44 small Hujras (Residential Cells) and three Dalaans. The outer walls are covered with coat of lime plaster, the surface of which is divided into large shallow rectangular panels and arches. It is believed that the Hujras located on the southern side were used by the family members of Emperor Jahangir and other Mughal Kings while going to Kashmir or returning from Srinagar. There is a Dalaan near the southern Hujras which was used by queens and their female attendants. In the middle of north wall there is another Dalaan believed to be used by the emperor. In the Centre of the Sarai, there is a mosque which was constructed later on and renovated during 1997. In the last edge of mosque premises there is a burial place of entrails of EmperorJahangir. The main gate (Deodi) large in size is located on the western side. This main gate was used by Darbaries and royal caravans. There are two other entrances also in the Sarai towards the northern and southern sides. The northern entrance was used for the movement of royal families towards Sukh Tao River. The southern gate is opened towards the renowned Bawali. There was no encamping ground near the Sarai for royal carvan. It is believed that only personal families of Mughal kings halted in this Sarai while the Mughal carvan encamped on the opposite side of Rajouri River where there was a plain area which is now converted into agricultural fields.
Rajouri-After Chingus Rajouri was main retiering place of Mughals .In ancient time Rajouri was called as (Raj puri).During 631-633 Raj puri was under the supervision of Kashmir.A visitor named Hayon Sang named Raj puri as (Ho lushi polo)
Thanna Mandi-Thanna is also blessed by art of Mughal artists in the form of a big and versatile fort .This fort was built during 15th and 16th century at the time of Jhangir after fort of Chingus fort of Thanna mandi is another example of Mughal royalty Tall strong and beautifully constructed wall of fort can be seen as epitome of safety and security.
Noori cham - Moving a head there came a spot which have mesmerizing effect over the minds of its visitors the spot is known as Noori Cham after the name of Noor Jahan loving wife of emperor Jhangir .Noori Cham is about 1mile away from Bufliaz area this area is blessed by a charming, refreshing and a life full water fall king Jhangir had constructed a foot step for him from where he used to enjoy the beauty and freshness of this waterfall for hours together .Richard Temple a famous tourist who happened to travel over this track in 1859 he writes that at a distance of 1mile from Behram gala there is small but attractive spot where on an ancient rock some verses in an unknown language have been carved by king Jhangir after impressing from the beauty of Noori Cham in the very left side of fall there is place made for a big mirror where Noor Jahan used to dress her self. Noori Cham is also linked with a very painful story of Behram and Hassan Bano .Behram was one of the ministers of king and Hassan Bano was beautiful servant of queen Noor jehan mean while intimation started between them and reached up to true love once Behram showed his will to marry Hassan Bano but Noor jahan opposed it bitterly she further conspired his killing and threw his body inside the fall ofNoori Cham on hearing thisHassan Bano also embraced death and dead bodies of these two true lovers disappeared in the deep water of Noori Cham.
Poshana;Another historically important village which comes after Noori Cham is Poshana .This village is situated at 33.38 latitude and 74.32 longitude, historical relevance of village is proved by its mention in Raj Tarangani(History of Jammu and Kashmir)by kalhan .Kalkan named Poshana as poshan nad a Sanskrit word which mean Narrow track of air according to written records the real track of Mughals for reaching valley was from Poshana but newly constructed Mughal road left the village aside and passed from its periphery ,different types of utensils which show their link with Mughals have been found by inhabitants of this village during the construction of their houses proved the historical relevance of this village.
Peer ki Gali - Moving a head after crossing a frequently used meadow Chatta pani there arrive a religious spot named as Peer ki gali this place got its name because of a converted Hindu saint (Seikh Ahmed Karim). Bernier Francios a most famous Francis visitor who happened to pass this place along with caravan of Mughal emperor Auranzab while going to Kashmir from Lahore in 1665 writes that this saint was living here from the time of king Jhanjir .
This saint could perform miracles by producing horrible voices .He could also bring storms along with hail stones and snow .He was an old white bearded man he ordered the people not to create noise in this calm place of God and also demand offerings from them Bernier further writes that he happened to met him inside his cave and told by him that Mughal king Auranzab and Shah jahan were wise enough as they passed this calm place of God very calmly unlike Jahangir as a result Jahangir faced dangerous results during his time of rule.
Aliabad Sarai-Few km away from Peer ki gali and in the quite south of Peer ki gali there situated another Mughal fort named as Aliabad sarai This fort was constructed by Mughal king Shah Jahan this fort is another beautiful example of art of artists of Mughal empire .
From Aliabad Sarai there constructed a path to a narrow spot by Shah Jahan for some security reasons an interesting story is related to the construction of this track .As per the written records Ali Mardan Khan was a Mughal constructed he had constructed all the forts and routs along Mughal road When he started constructing this path he has been told by inhabitants that this place is haunted by a man eater LalGhulam who threw every one to death from this mountain but according to local stories Ali Mardan was strong enough he entered inside cave but did not found man eater insides he threw man eater's son to death later on nothing has been found about Lal Gulam so far
Daubjai- After passing Aliabad sarai there come anotherbeautiful and attractive meadow Daubjai .Daubjai is followed by Heerpur after crossing Heerpur this road will make you to float in heavenly atmosphere of Kashmir(Heaven on Earth)
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