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| Ladakh: Land of high Passes | | |  K K Kemmu
Ladakh, the name comes from “La Dvags” which means the Land of the High Passes. Most of us are well aware of the fact that it’s a Trans Himalayan Desert. But there are other finer parts of the geography which make it more interesting and unique. It has got the majestic mountains, the rivers, Pristine lakes, lots of snow but very little greenery and vegetation. Ladakh should be viewed in terms of its imposing mountain ranges, high altitude passes, glaciers, rivers, crystal clear but saline lakes, sand dunes, hot springs, valleys and ancient monasteries perched on cliffs. It is a photographers delight and a paradise for the motor bikers. And stargazers.
Ladakh is one of the loftiest inhabited regions of the world, (9000 to over 25,000 ft above sea level). Its short but warm summers enable very limited grain and fruit crops to ripen. Owing to the great aridity of the atmosphere, the climate is one of fierce extremes, from burning heat of some of the deserts to several degrees below freezing-point at night. The climate is harsh, with long winters and short summers, but the warmth of its people and the vibrancy of its traditions more than compensate. The bare mountains also exhibit the exquisite desert coloration of the rocks due to the peculiar solar weathering.
Ladakh, often called the “Land of High Passes,” is a breathtaking region nestled in the northernmost part of India. Its beauty is stark, spiritual, and awe-inspiring, marked by contrasts that are both dramatic and serene.
1. Majestic Landscapes: Ladakh’s landscapes are like no other. Towering snow-capped peaks rise above barren, golden-brown mountains. Wide, open valleys stretch endlessly, interrupted only by glistening rivers or tiny patches of greenery. The high-altitude desert terrain is punctuated by massive rock formations, sand dunes in Nubra Valley, and colorful prayer flags fluttering in the crisp mountain wind.
2. Stunning Lakes: The region is home to some of the world’s most stunning high-altitude lakes. Pangong Tso, with its ever-changing shades of blue, stretches from India into Tibet and Tso Moriri, surrounded by snow-dusted hills, offers a mirror-like reflection of the sky and mountains. These lakes, set against barren backdrops, create a surreal and otherworldly beauty.
3. Spiritual Serenity: Ladakh’s ancient Buddhist monasteries, such as Hemis, Thiksey, and Diskit, add a spiritual charm. Perched dramatically on hillsides, these gompas are adorned with colorful murals, golden statues, and spinning prayer wheels. The chanting of monks and flutter of prayer flags create a sense of peace and timelessness.
4. Unique Culture and People: The warmth of the Ladakhi people, with their distinct Tibetan-influenced traditions, adds to the region’s charm. Their festivals, music, and dances bring vibrant color to the stark landscape. Traditional homes with whitewashed walls and flat roofs dot the villages, offering a glimpse into a way of life that’s both simple and deeply connected to nature. Culturally, Ladakh is a fascinating blend of Tibetan Buddhism and Indian heritage. The region is dotted with centuries-old gompas (monasteries), prayer flags fluttering in the wind, and festivals that celebrate life with music, dance, and ritual. Leh, the capital city, serves as the gateway to this mystical land and offers a mix of modern amenities and ancient charm.
5. Clear Skies and Starry Nights: At night, Ladakh becomes a stargazer’s paradise. With minimal pollution and high altitude, the night sky dazzles with constellations, planets, and even the Milky Way visible to the naked eye. It’s a silent, magical experience that humbles and uplifts.
Whether you’re drawn by its spiritual aura, its adventure opportunities like trekking and river rafting, or simply its breathtaking vistas, Ladakh promises an experience that is both humbling and unforgettable. In essence, Ladakh is a place where earth meets sky, where silence speaks volumes, and where natural beauty and spiritual depth exist in perfect harmony. Ladakh feels like another planet—where the skies stretch endlessly, the mountains whisper ancient secrets, and every turn reveals a postcard-perfect view. It’s not just a destination—it’s a journey for the soul.
Different hues of Ladakh:
Ladakh consists of a number of distinct areas, including the fairly populous main Indus valley, the more remote Zanskar (in the south) and Nubra valleys (to the north over Khardung La in the Ladakh mountain range), the almost deserted Aksai Chin (under Chinese rule) and the predominantly Shi’ite Muslim Kargil and Suru valley areas in the west (Kargil being the second most important town in Ladakh). Leh (predominantly Budhist) & Kargil (predominantly Muslim) are the two districts of the present UT of Ladakh. Baltistan and Skardu used to be included in what is geographically referred to as Ladakh but are presently under Pakistani rule and are entirely Muslim. Before partition, Baltistan was one of the districts of Ladakh. Skardo was the winter capital of Ladakh while Leh was the summer capital. People of Baltistan and Ladakh speak very similar languages closely related to Tibetan.
IMPORTANT PRECAUTIONS:
At Ladakh, the sea level is around 11,500 ft above sea level and oxygen levels drop to just 60–65%. This sudden dip in oxygen can cause problems. While some travellers adjust quickly, others may take longer — and ignoring this fact can result in Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
1. Light Meals: For the first 48 hours, skip heavy meals like Maggi, momos, or fried food. The digestive system tends to slow down at high altitude, so lighter meals help the body to adapt easier.
2. Avoid Over-exertion. Don’t head towards Khardung La (18,000 ft) straight away. This can result in severe AMS symptoms. At Khardung la, limit your time there to less than 30 minutes. and avoid pushing your body too hard, too soon.
3. Plan Wisely & Acclimatize. A Ladakh itinerary isn’t just about covering spots — it’s about allowing your body to adjust. Give yourself 24–48 hours in Leh before heading to higher altitudes. This simple step can save your entire trip.
4. Ladakh weather is dry. Keep yourself hydrated.
Ladakh is breathtaking, but it demands respect for nature and patience with your own body. With careful planning. you could enjoy Ladakh without letting altitude sickness ruin your adventure.
Historical aspects of Ladakh:
The initial inhabitants of Ladakh are said to the Changpas nomadic tribes from the Tibattan Plateau. These were followed by the Aryans and the Dards (from Gilgit) as Ladakh became a gateway to the central Asia.
Around the 1st century AD Ladakh was part of the Kushan empire. Budhism was established in the 2nd century. Budhism found its way to Ladakh via Tibet through Guru Padma Sambhav who is said to have been invited from Kashmir to Tibet by the then ruler. He established Budhism in Tibet and from there to Ladakh.
In the 7th Century there was a clash between Ladakh & Tibet and in 635 AD, Tibetan commissioner was appointed. In 677 AD there was a rebellion against the Tibetan rule.
In 737AD, Tibet launched an attack against king Bru-Za of Gilgit with the help of Chinese.
In 842 AD, the Tibet monarchy collapse and suzerainty over Ladakh vanished. There was a large migration from Tibet into Ladakh. Nyima-Goh of the ancient Tibet royalty house established the first Ladakh Dynasty.
13th – 16th: century, several Muslim invasions and raids took place and Ladakh was broken into Lower & upper Ladakh. Islam arrived in the 15th century through traders, mystics and warriors from Kashmir, central Asia and Baltistan. Basgo king overthrew the king of Leh and reunited Ladakh and established the Namgyal Dynasty with Jamyang Namgyal as the king. Concerted efforts were made to convert Ladakh into Islam and destruction of Budhist Artefacts was carried out. It was the decision of king Jamyang Namgyal that steered Ladakh towards being a cradle of diverse cultures. He entered into an alliance with Gyal Khatun the daughter of the Balti king Amir Mir. Their son, Sengge Namgyal, half Budhist and half Muslim ascended the throne in 1616 AD and became the most famous king of Ladakh.
1616-1642 AD; Sengge Namgyal known as the ‘Lion King’ made efforts to restore Ladakh to its old glory by reclaiming lost land and rebuilding several gompas/ monasteries and shrines. The most famous being the Hemis Monastery. He moved the royal headquarter from the Shay Palace to the Leh palace. He also expanded the kingdom into the Zanskar and Spiti. He tried to expand his empire beyond but was defeated by the Mughals who had already occupied Kashmir and Baltistan.
1642-1694: Deldan Namgyal the son of Sengge Namgyal picked a quarrel with his ally, Tibet prompting the 5th Dalai lama to invade Ladakh. Deldan sought help from Kashmir which was granted under the condition that the king convert to Islam and had to placate Mughal emperor Aurangzeb by building a mosque in Leh.
Early 19th century: Mughal Empire collapsed, Punjab and Kashmir came under the Sikh Rule.
1834: Gen. Zorawar Singh (Military general of the Dogra king Maharaja Gulab Singh) invaded Ladakh, king Tshespal Namgyal was dethroned and exiled to Stok.
1834-1839: Gen. Zorawar Singh led 3 expeditions to Ladakh putting an end to all possible rebellions or resistance.
1846: Ladakh was brought under the Dogra rule and became part of the Jammu & Kashmir.
1947- 48: Partition and the Pakistani raid. Pakistanis occupied Zanskar and Leh but was later evicted by the Indian army.
1949: China closed the border between Nubra and Sinkiang blocking the 1000-year-old route to Central Asia.
1950: China invaded Tibet. Dalai Lama and thousands of Tibetans take refuge in India.
1962: China occupied Aksai Chin.
1979: Ladakh reorganised into Leh & Kargil Districts.
1996: Ladakh Autonomous hill council.
2019: UT of Ladakh
(The author is a columinist and respected KP leader) |
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