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| THE ROYAL MULBERRY LEGACY- A PROSPECTIVE OF J & K SERICULTURE HERITAGE | | | Sanjay Rohmetra | 4/12/2026 6:45:33 PM |
| The history of sericulture in Jammu and Kashmir is a tapestry woven over two millennia, blending legend with documented trade and imperial patronage. As one of the oldest traditional industries in the region, it has transitioned from a secretive silk route monopoly to a cornerstone of the regional economy.
Origin:
The story of sericulture in Jammu and Kashmir is not merely a record of an industry; it is a two-thousand-year-old epic woven from the threads of geopolitical intrigue, clandestine migrations, and environmental blessings. Long before the formalization of the department of Sericulture, the region’s high-altitude valleys served as a natural cradle for the world’s most coveted fiber. While China is the undisputed birthplace of silk, Kashmir served as a vital transit point on the Northern Silk Route.
The Legend of the Princess:
Popular folklore suggests that silk cultivation reached the region via a Chinese princess who smuggled silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds in her elaborate headdress to the Khotan region, from where it trickled down into the Kashmir valley.
The princess in the legend is most commonly referred to as the “Silk Princess” or the “Princess of Khotan.” While her specific personal name is rarely recorded in ancient texts, her story was famously documented by the 7th-century Chinese Buddhist monk Xuanzang in his travelogue, Great Tang Records on the Western Regions.
Archaeological Evidence:
Remnants of silk textiles found in Central Asian burials and mentions in ancient Sanskrit texts suggest that by the 1st and 2nd Century AD, during the Kushan Empire, silk weaving was already established in the valley.
The Medieval Period:
Sericulture saw its first major “state-sponsored” boost during the medieval period, particularly under the reign of Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin (1420–1470 AD), popularly known as Budshah.
Budshah is credited with inviting expert weavers and silkworm rearers from Khorasan (Persia) and Samarkand to modernize Kashmiri techniques.
The Mughal Influence:
Later, the Mughal Emperors (16th–17th Century) were enamored with the valley’s climate, which was ideal for the white mulberry-Morus alba. They encouraged the planting of massive mulberry groves, treating silk as a luxury commodity for the imperial courts.
The Dogra Period -19th Century Expansion
The transition from a cottage industry to an organized state enterprise occurred under the Dogra Dynasty of Maharaja Gulab Singh and Ranbir Singh.
In the mid-1800s, the Dogra rulers recognized the commercial potential of silk. Maharaja Ranbir Singh established a dedicated department to oversee the industry, realizing that the high altitude and temperate climate produced silk of exceptional tensile strength and luster.
The formal establishment of the Sericulture Department in Jammu and Kashmir is a fascinating transition from a medieval royal patronage to one of the most organized state-run enterprises in British India. While silk had been produced in the valley for centuries, the “Department” as a modern administrative body emerged in the late 19th century.
The Pre-Department Era (Early 1800s)
Before a formal department existed, sericulture was managed under the Dogra rulers. Maharaja Gulab Singh (1846–1857) recognized silk as a source of revenue and began treating it as a state-controlled commodity. However, it lacked scientific oversight, and the industry suffered frequent collapses due to silkworm diseases.
The 1889 Reorganization:
The modern Department of Sericulture owes its birth to Maharaja Ranbir Singh.
In 1889, the state government decided to place sericulture on a permanent footing. The industry was organized into a formal government department to ensure quality control and disease prevention.
Role of Sir Walter Lawrence:
As the Settlement Commissioner of Kashmir, Lawrence saw the immense potential for silk to alleviate rural poverty. He advocated for the state to provide “seed” (silkworm eggs) to farmers for free, which encouraged mass participation.
Scientific Professionalization-1897
The department reached international standards through the intervention of Sir Thomas Wardle, a famous English silk expert.
The Silk Board:
The Silk Board of 1897 (often referred to as the Silk Committee or Departmental Board) was a pivotal administrative reform that transformed Jammu and Kashmir into a global player in the silk trade.
It marked the shift from industry unorganized cottage rearing to a sophisticated, state-run industrial powerhouse.
Earlier in the mid-1890s, the silk in Kashmir was facing a crisis due to Pebrine and poor quality control.
Maharaja Pratap Singh seeking to modernize the state’s economy, sought British expertise to save the sector.
Architects of the Board:
The reorganization was led by two primary figures:
Sir Thomas Wardle- A renowned British silk expert and President of the Silk Association of Great Britain. He visited the valley, conducted extensive research on the local climate and mulberry quality, and provided the blueprint for the 1897 reforms.
Sir Walter Lawrence- The then-Settlement Commissioner, who recognized that for the industry to survive, the state had to control the “seed” (silkworm eggs) to ensure they were disease-free.
The most significant steps taken by Board:
1. Establishment of Rambagh Silk Factory 1897
Under the recommendations of the 1897 Board, the Rambagh Silk Factory was established in Srinagar. It quickly became one of the largest and most advanced silk reeling units in the world.The board sanctioned the import of modern steam-reeling machinery from Europe specifically Italy and France, replacing the crude traditional hand-reeling methods.
2. State Monopoly:
All silk production was brought under the direct control of the state. Private reeling was largely restricted to ensure that only “Kashmir Silk” of a specific standard reached the international market.
3. Disease Prevention:
The Board established the first scientific laboratories to examine silkworm eggs. Only Disease-Free Layings (DFLs) were distributed to the farmers.
4. Mulberry Protection:
The Board declared the mulberry tree as a “Royal Tree” -Sarkar making it illegal to cut or damage them without state permission, as they were the sole food source for the worms.
5. Fixed Pricing:
To encourage rural farmers, the Board established a fixed purchase price for cocoons, protecting rearers from the fluctuations of middleman-controlled markets.
Historical Significance:
The actions taken in 1897 turned Jammu and Kashmir into a primary supplier of high-quality Bivoltine silk to the United Kingdom and Europe. At its peak in the early 20th century, the “Kashmir Silk” brand was considered a direct competitor to the finest French and Italian silks in terms of strength and gloss.
Structural Legacy-Establishment of J&K Department of Sericulture:
The 1897 Board laid the groundwork for what eventually became the J&K Sericulture Development Department. Its focus on centralized seed production and state-monitored reeling remained the operational model until the liberalization of the industry in 1988.
At Wardle’s suggestion, the state established a professional administrative structure.
The First Director/Technical Head
Mr. C.B. Walton was appointed as the first technical head -Director of the department.
Evolution of Administrative Structure,:
The department was historically divided into two main provinces to suit the geographical needs of the state:
Kashmir Division: Focused on the spring crop and high-grade Bivoltine silk, centered around the Srinagar headquarters.
Jammu Division: Focused on both spring and autumn crops, dealing with the unique subtropical climate of the plains and foothills.
Post-Independence Modernization
After 1947, the department underwent several shifts in governance:
State Monopoly Era:
For decades, the department held a monopoly on the purchase of cocoons to protect local rearers from market volatility.
Demonopolisation: In 1988-89, the trade was “demonopolised” or liberalized, allowing farmers to sell cocoons in open markets, though the department maintained its role in providing technical guidance, mulberry saplings, and disease-free silkworm seeds.
Milestones in the Department’s History
1. 1889- Formal State Control - Sericulture recognized as a primary state industry.
2. 1897-Rambagh Silk Factory - Establishment of organized industrial silk reeling. |
3. 1907 -Expansion to Jammu - Systematic introduction of organized rearing in Jammu province.
4.1958- Research Integration- Establishment of research wings to improve local silk races.
Today, the department functions as a specialized wing of the government, focusing heavily on Research & Development (R&D) of Central Silk Board , the maintenance of Mulberry Nurseries and providing the Disease Free Layings (DFLs)that form the backbone of the region’s silk production.
Distinctive Geographical Advantages
The “ancient” success of sericulture in Jammu and Kashmir is largely due to unique environmental factors:
Bivoltine Silk:
Unlike the tropical regions of India that produce multivoltine silk, the J&K region is one of the few places in the world that naturally supports Bivoltine -High Grade-silk.
Mulberry Wealth:
The region is home to indigenous varieties of mulberry trees that have been cultivated for centuries, providing the primary nutrient source for the Bombyx mori silkworms.
Rearing as a Household Activity:
Traditionally, “silkworm rearing” involved entire families, with the spring crop from May–June being a critical source of income before the main agricultural harvests.
The historical journey of sericulture in Jammu and Kashmir is not merely a record of industrial evolution, but a profound testament to the region’s enduring spirit of excellence and its unique place in the global cultural landscape.
The continued success of this industry is a tribute to the dedicated professionals and the hardworking rearing communities who have nurtured this “Queen of Textiles” through centuries of change. With a renewed focus on modernization and global standards, the Department of Sericulture stands poised to elevate J&K’s silk to even greater heights. In every shimmering thread of Kashmir silk, there lies the heartbeat of a region that has mastered the art of turning nature’s simplest gifts into a masterpiece of human ingenuity—a legacy that will undoubtedly continue to inspire and flourish for generations to come. |
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